Expat Entrepreneurs: Lauren from Devour Spain

In this series, I feature expats who started their own business abroad. From food to fashion, art to tourism — these women had the guts and confidence to pursue their passions and turn it into something bigger. Check out previous interviews here.

For the past three years, this series has been devoted to expats who set up businesses in Paris. However, like any healthy three-year-old, it’s time to change and grow: today features the first Expat Entrepreneur interview from outside France! Meet Lauren, who went from expat blogger to food tour owner in Spain:

Hi Lauren! Tell us a little about yourself and your life before Madrid.

I grew up in a small rural town in Massachusetts — my first job was at a dairy farm! My grandparents came from Italy and food was always a topic of conversation — I only realized later on in life that most other families didn’t discuss their dinner plans while eating lunch.

My parents weren’t big travelers, but I had a bad case of wanderlust for as long as I can remember. I’d pore over National Geographic magazines and check out travel guides from the library since starting to read.

When I was 16 I’d saved enough money to go overseas for the first time and did a month-long home stay in Sicily. Travel has been a huge part of my life ever since.

When and why did you move to Madrid?

I first moved to Spain in 2009 after graduating from university. I wanted to live abroad and improve my spoken Spanish — and, if I’m honest, I simply wasn’t ready for a 9-5. I’d already studied abroad in southern Spain, so I chose to apply there and wound up in Seville. I knew that this was the perfect opportunity to learn everything I possibly could about Spanish food and wine, as my tentative plans were to attend culinary school when I moved back to the US.

Fast forward a few years and I’d married a Spaniard and tired of teaching English. We wanted to stay in Spain but needed a change, and I yearned to get back into my field (hospitality and tourism management). So we moved to the capital, and I started a food blog called Spanish Sabores. I used it as a platform to begin freelance writing about Spanish food and travel, but missed the personal connection with people that I’d always had working in restaurants.

What was the hardest part about moving to Spain?

Leaving friends and family is always the worst part, even now. I left the US with one young niece and now have three young nieces and nephews. I wish I could be a part of their daily lives! It’s difficult not to have a deep network as I would in the US, and sometimes cultural differences make it hard to connect to Spaniards who are around my age.

What do you mean, what makes it so difficult?

They are often only just starting to become independent in their mid-20s, whereas I’ve had a job since I was 15 and lived on my own since 18. We just don’t connect the same way.

Tell us a little bit about your company. Why start a food tour business?

Devour Spain currently offers food tours in Barcelona, Madrid and Seville. We support small, family-run businesses and our mission is to connect food-loving travelers with local cuisine, culture, and the people behind the food.

I started the company as Madrid Food Tour in 2012 after studying other food tours around the world. I loved the combination of food, history and culture, and also the idea of working with small local businesses. So I designed my first website and tour, and began guiding that summer.

When I realized that there was definitely a need for this type of quality culinary tourism in Spain, and that we would also contribute to the local economy with the tours, I knew I’d found my calling. I partnered with two fellow food lovers and we’ve been working to build the Devour Spain brand ever since!

Spanish cuisine has been in the press over the past 10 years on a regular basis, constantly winning awards for the best chefs and restaurants in the world! But, since Spanish cuisine wasn’t exported to the same degree as others (such as Italian cuisine or Greek cuisine), people often don’t know what to expect.

And, like most cuisines based on simple, high quality ingredients, if you try Spanish food in the wrong place you’ll leave unhappy. So, on the one hand, we want to show people that the food here goes far beyond the stereotypical paella and sangria. But, at the same time, we want to educate them about how to find the best and most authentic versions of paella and sangria (because both can be amazing when done well).

We also love the ability to bridge the gap between curious tourists and proud shop owners and restauranteurs. The businesses we work with are often surprised that people are so curious about how they make their food, or their families’ stories, but once they feel comfortable sharing their experiences, they don’t want to stop talking!

Giving them an audience allows them to take even more pride in what they’re doing, which is so important given the trend towards chain restaurants and fast food these days.

What was your biggest fear in starting your company, and how did you overcome that?

I feared that I’d avoid a 9-5 but create an 8-8. And it happened. But I believe it’s an essential part of being an entrepreneur and know it will be temporary.

In the past year we’ve grown quickly, expanding into two cities and hiring four full time staff as well as many tour guides. So although I’m still working non-stop, I do see the light!. And I can’t complain — I enjoy the work! I feel fortunate to work doing what I love.

What lessons have you gained in running your company?

There are two main lessons I’ve learned in the past few years. The first is to create processes for everything. This is essential to expanding a business. You may do everything today, but someone else has to be able to do it tomorrow — and to the same standards. I also learned the value of having partners. I never would have imagined partnering up with people, but I am so glad that I did.

What’s the best part about the business?

I love our special connection with our tour partners. Our clients are also amazing, but the interaction is quick — perhaps a few emails and then the four-hour tour. But our relationship with vendors is long-term, and rewarding. Hearing that their business is doing better because of our partnership is a great feeling.

What’s the worst or hardest part about the business?

The typical culprits: taxes, bureaucracy, and time management. Luckily, we have an accountant to help with the fine print. But it’s the part I definitely like least!

A huge draw to your tours is that you focus on only local families and establishments. How do you find and choose which places go on the tour? 

As fun as it sounds, planning a food tour is a complicated and ongoing process. Imagine weeks or even months filled with tons of research (in both English and Spanish) on food history, city and country history, local culture, and best places to eat. There’s also the pavement pounding portion: hitting the streets of the chosen area to make sure we don’t miss any gems and trying everything that could be of interest!

After we’ve narrowed things down, it’s all about our mission: we only support small, family-run businesses with a story behind them. We want to connect food-loving travelers with some of Spain’s most delicious food and the amazing people who make it, so we prefer places where owners are present.

Once we know who we’d like to work with, there’s the logistics part and also making sure that they are as excited as we are! That can be tough, given most Spaniards don’t initially understand the idea of a food tour. Our routes are always changing; we add little details, new tastes, new stories… and that’s what makes it exciting!

How has Devour Spain improved or impacted your expat experience?

I’d say that my work currently defines my expat experience — but in a good way. I love being a Spanish food specialist and the opportunities that have come from this knowledge have been exciting. We’ve been on TV shows, quoted in the international press, and I’ve even become the Spanish food expert for About.com. I’ve also had the opportunity to share my experiences with the expat community, which I hope might inspire others to start their own ventures in Spain.

What advice would you give for future entrepreneurs in Madrid/Spain or abroad?

Take the risk but do it right.

Entrepreneurship is not easy, so go into it with realistic expectations. Do your research. Register the right way. Pay employees well and pay your taxes. Stay informed — it’s your responsibility.

But don’t let the idea of it scare you away. Don’t wait until you have the perfect business plan written out. Just go for it — you’ll learn along the way!

Lauren Aloise is the food obsessed editor of the award-winning Spanish food and travel blog, Spanish Sabores. In 2012 she founded Madrid Food Tour as a way to share her love of gastronomy with tourists to Madrid. In 2014 she co-founded Devour Spain, which runs food tours in Barcelona, Seville and Madrid. When she’s not leading a tour, she’s probably traveling, cooking, or curled up with a glass of wine. Follow her Spanish travels and try her Spanish recipes on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.