Lau Pa Sat: A feast of street food

Given the choice between a nice restaurant and a hawker center, nine times out of ten I will choose the option that finds me sweating on a tiny plastic stool eating cheap street food.

Lau Pa Sat is one of those places. A favorite among my friends for a late night dinner or group gathering, Lau Pa Sat is one of Singapore’s oldest hawker centers, featuring a Victorian-style building that dates back to the 1800s. Located in the heart of the central business district, during lunch time it sees an endless stream of businessmen and office workers.

But at night, it comes alive.

Satay stalls fire up their coals, and beer ladies strap on their aprons. Tables are set up on the closed-off street, placed so closely together that no conversation is secret.

You’ll find everyone here, from locals to families with small children to expats. The only people you won’t see are suits — not because they’re above Lau Pa Sat, but because the heat from the grills only adds to the already barely-bearable Singapore humidity. Wear anything but shorts and a t-shirt here, and be prepared to melt.

Stall 6, Satay Power, even features a Satay Challenge, daring people to eat as many sticks of meat as possible in 20 minutes. Two of my best friends tried this challenge last year (video here); the standing record is 102 sticks, but the winner only (only) managed to get 77 down. It’s a tougher, and greasier, challenge than it sounds, my friends.

Besides satay, you can also order cheap chilli crab and sting ray, as well as various rice and noodle dishes. For the same cost as two glasses of wine at a restaurant, you can easily have a veritable feast of southeast Asian food and drink at Lau Pa Sat.

Good food, cheap beer; a relaxed atmosphere and the company of friends: this is my idea of a rockin’ night out.