Rottnest Island: More than just beaches

I am not a beach person.

There are a few reasons for this: I tan unnaturally quickly, so I avoid excessive beach time lest I start to look like Asian Snooki. I quickly get bored with the environment — I’d much rather read a book in a café. But most of all, it’s because I have a mild OCD tic about sand. I can appreciate the beauty of a sandy beach, but I don’t find sitting on one remotely relaxing.

That’s why I originally brushed off the idea of visiting Rottnest Island. The advertisements around Perth and Fremantle showcased it as a beach holiday destination, where families can spend all afternoon relaxing in the sand and sun, then throw barbecues on their beachfront patios. Not for me, thanks.

But when I found out a fellow blogger was planning to bike around the island, I decided to join her — and I am so glad I did. After seeing what Rotto has to offer, I think anyone would be terribly mistaken to overlook it while in Western Australia. Not only is it an incredibly easy day trip (the island is only 14 miles west of Fremantle, and ferries run several times a day), but there is much more to Rotto than just beaches.

History

As I biked around the island known as Wadjemup in the Aboriginal language, I constantly stumbled across historical buildings and sites that contrasted against the island’s beautiful shores; reminding you of its dark history and the constant struggles and misunderstandings between settlers and natives. Between 1838 and 1931, Rottnest Island’s main purpose was as an Aboriginal prison; over 3600 Aboriginal men and boys arrived on its shores, often for crimes they didn’t understand. At the Wadjemup burial ground, nearly 400 prisoners are buried. It is now sacred land; yet prior to 2007, this space was used for various recreational purposes by tourists, including camping.

Small churches are clustered in the island’s center; they were often used as schools during the day and reading rooms at night, when people would congregate to read newspapers and magazines by candlelight (how quaint does that sound?). Rotto also played a larger role in the survival and development of Western Australia: in the still standing Salt House, you learn that Rotto has twelve salt lakes, each with a salt content four to six times greater than sea water — meaning for years this was the only source of salt in WA.

And the Bathhurst Lighthouse is a reminder of a time, not that long ago, when people still perished simply due to poor lighting. Captains of ships heading to Perth, then known as the Swan River Colony, would ignore or misunderstand lighthouse signals, and would find disaster waiting on the rugged coastline and shallow reefs of Rottnest Island.

Activities

Besides the obvious swimming and snorkeling, the most popular thing to do is to walk or bike around the island. The roads are often clear (or at least, uncrowded), which makes for a relaxing ride; and the scenery is absolutely beautiful. You never know what you’ll find around each bend: a sweeping ocean view, a forest of greenery, a seemingly-untouched beach, or even an encounter with the native wildlife.

Another draw to Rotto is animal sighting; especially for the novelty of finding a quokka. These marsupials can only be found on two islands in Australia, and sort of look like a tiny kangaroo or wallaby, though far more adorable. They’re harmless and aren’t afraid to get up close and personal to sniff you for food. Animal sighting can also be a passive activity; all you need to do is keep your eyes open. This peacock came strutting about next to me while I was eating lunch.

If you prefer guided tours to exploring on your own, the island also offers several free ones each day, led by volunteers. Depending on where your interests lie, you could join in on a historical tour through Rottnest Museum, a nautical tour of the reefs and shipwrecks, or a nature tour of the salt lakes and bushlands at Viamingh Lookout.

Nature

But of course, with 63 bays and beaches, it’s difficult to go to Rottnest and not find yourself enjoying at least one. I was surprised to find myself so awe-struck by the beaches. Not because of the soft sand or lack of crowds; again I wasn’t there to be a beach bum — but because of the crystal, and I mean crystal clear waters that revealed an incredibly array of colors beneath from the shallow reefs. The waters of Rotto honestly took my breath away.

Yes, Rottnest Island is a gorgeous beach destination. But it was the history that really stayed with me. The isolation that makes Rotto so idyllic today is exactly what made it a hardship a century or two ago; without direct access to supplies or facilities, the people on the island had to be incredibly strong and self-sufficient. People come to Rotto to relax, and relax I did — but the island is also the story of people who suffered and persevered.

I left in late afternoon, feeling unexpectedly fulfilled, thinking of a small sign I found near the pier:

“Although it’s a short distance away from the coast, in truth it’s a world away.”