The 5 best things I ate in France: April 2012

You know what? This month was kind of disappointing on the food front.

It’s probably my fault. Paris and I have definitely exited our honeymoon phase, so I don’t go out to eat very often — in fact, I’m really enjoying cooking for myself these days. In all the cities I lived in and traveled to in Asia, it was cheaper to eat out than to buy groceries and prepare meals at home. Paris has been the first city where it’s more wallet-friendly to stay at home for dinner — and it’s also the first time I’ve lived on my own. So my stove and oven are getting quite the workout (yes, I have an oven! China expats, I can feel your envy through the internet)!

Regardless, the show must go on. This month’s post includes not just Paris, but also features dishes from my week on the Riviera, in a tiny town called La Londe Les Maures. 

The top 5, in order:

1. Osso Buco (homemade)

Do homemade dishes count? I suppose they should, so long as it’s cooked by someone else. This osso buco was prepared by the employers who brought me down to La Londe for the week. I’d never tried this Italian dish of braised veal shanks, though I’d always wanted to after it featured in one of my favorite episodes of The Office. Turns out — it tastes exactly like my mom’s pot roast. And my mom’s an amazing cook as it is, but her pot roast is phenomenal. All this dish needed was some potatoes and celery, and I could’ve been sitting at my kitchen table in York, listening to Shanghainese instead of French….

2. Marmite du Pêcheur at Le Lagon

Also known as Fisherman’s Pot, marmite de pêcheur is basically a stew with a variety of fresh seafood thrown in: mussels, prawns, squid, and of course, fish. While the soup was decent, the best part of the dish for me was the accompanying rouille — that rust-colored (for rouille means rust in French) glob in the corner of the photo. Basically it’s a spicy saffron mayo that’s meant to go well with fish soup: spread it on the crouton, drop that into your soup, and you’ve got a satisfying seaside meal.

3. Cochon from a local pâtisserie in La Londe

 Cochon means pig in French; something I did not know until after I’d already consumed half this little guy and thought to research what the silky sweet, dried-fruit-laced almond-y filling was. After consulting with some foodies on instagram, we determined it was marzipan. But I’m still not sure…I suppose I’ll just have to do some more marzipan research in the future.

4. Café Éclair from Le Moulin de la Vierge

And we’re back to Paris. “An éclair?” you might be saying. “That’s hardly original.” No, it’s not, but I have eaten many a pastry since arriving in Paris, and recently discovered that this shop next to the Sèvres-Lecourbes metro station does the best eclair I’ve tried so far. The coffee flavor is intense in both the icing and the filling, and the dough isn’t too soft or hard. Trust me, it’s worth it to hop on the line 6 just for this.

5. Hot chocolate at Angelina

Like the falafel as L’as du, Angelina’s Chocolate Chaud L’Africain was a “Paris staple” everyone said I had to try when I announced I was moving to Paris. I’ll admit it did kind of taste like it came straight from the Willy Wonka Chocolate Waterfall (which is why it’s on this list). But to be honest, it didn’t wow me. I can understand why everyone else raves about it — the chocolate is obviously quality, and Angelina’s dining room is high-tea-at-the-Queen’s classy (I can only imagine). But it was way too rich for my taste…and at almost €8 a pop, I mean that both figuratively and literally.

(Sidenote, since I’ve probably angered some Angelina fans already, I’ll just continue for the foodies who are interested — the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had was at O’Conaill’s in Cork, Ireland.)

Next month: It’s my BIRTHDAY and I will be going all out.

Know of a better éclair in Paris I should try? Have a suggestion for where I should have my birthday dinner? Let me know in the comments!

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17 Comments

  • Reply
    Lindsey (@LostNCheeseland)
    May 1, 2012 at 09:33

    Funny, when you first arrived you lacked the sweet tooth. Look at you now! ;)

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 1, 2012 at 09:40

      I know! Paris definitely has a way of making you change your mind!

  • Reply
    kristen (@unefemmeparis)
    May 1, 2012 at 09:48

    Yes! Homemade dishes do count. Especially if you work extra hard on them. And I agree about Angelina’s. I always like the idea and ritual of having it but then feel sick afterwards. I’ll have a think about bday restos!

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 1, 2012 at 09:58

      I actually did feel sick after the hot chocolate — and I didn’t even finish it all! Tbh, I might be back for brunch on my bday though — I did really like the atmosphere at Angelina.

  • Reply
    Erica
    May 1, 2012 at 11:38

    Lots of oven envy from me here in Tokyo too!

    I love decadent hot chocolate, but always make sure to order the smallest possible.
    There is such a thing as too much chocolate!

    That fish soup sounds absolutely amazing! I loved the food in Southern France when I was there (gasp) 9 years ago.

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 1, 2012 at 19:14

      Angelina only has one size — that massive mug! I wish I’d had more chances to sample Southern French cuisine; the rest of the week I ate all my meals with work. Next time!

      • Reply
        Erica
        May 2, 2012 at 01:57

        I think my arteries just clogged thinking about a large mug of decadent hot chocolate- definitely dragging someone with me then :)

  • Reply
    Nina L
    May 1, 2012 at 14:13

    Totally agree about the hot chocolate and the ambience. It is a beautiful place.

  • Reply
    Daisy de Plume
    May 1, 2012 at 16:31

    After (ital) your birthday month, you should do a 5 favourite dishes you made! These are great fun though. For your birthday week one resto to try out is Closerie des Lilas near the Observatoire in the 6th / 14th Arrt. And also I’m partial to the Alsatian Brasserie Flo, on cour/passage des Petites Ecuries, which you guys could follow up with hipster hopping around to various bars like Tombe du Ciel on rue d’Enghein, Chez Jeannette on Faubourg St Denis and the new l’Inconnu on rue de l’Echequier, all within minutes of one another in the 10th Arrt

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 1, 2012 at 19:22

      Thanks Daisy, those sound great!

  • Reply
    Kate (@shoegirlinDE)
    May 1, 2012 at 20:30

    I have to say the Verjus wine bar food was fantastic, so I’ll bet their fancier set menu in the adjoining restaurant would be just as delicious for a special meal! I also noticed La Maison du Chocolat had eclairs as well, and considering everything I’ve had there is pretty much the best thing I’ve ever tasted, I’m betting it’s pretty stellar.

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 1, 2012 at 21:15

      Funny enough I was just talking to Kristen (who commented above) about Verjus today at lunch and she recommended it as well. We’ll def go on a double date there if I don’t go for my birthday :) And yes, I still need to go to Maison du Chocolat!

  • Reply
    GQ
    May 2, 2012 at 11:38

    MMm.. I love all the mini desserts you can get in Paris. I don’t feel guilty eating 4 eclairs when they are so little. Lol. And yes.. Home cooking totally counts. ;)

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 2, 2012 at 11:54

      You guys really should come to Paris, I have such a food bucket list for this city and need partners in crime :)

  • Reply
    Michi
    May 2, 2012 at 12:38

    Oooh, ALL THIS FOOD LOOKS SO DELICIOUS!! I wish I had known of these places before I went to Paris last time. I’d love to try #1 and 2, and I’m willing to bet D-Man would go nuts for those pastries.

    • Reply
      Edna
      May 2, 2012 at 12:55

      Guess you’ll just have to come back :)

  • Reply
    The 5 best things I ate in Paris in May | Expat Edna
    June 1, 2012 at 00:41

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