The Wall Less Traveled: Hiking Remnants of the Great Wall

When I went to Beijing last year with my mom and sister, I came across a hostel with an actually “secret” tour of the Great Wall. Featuring a three-hour hike on a run-down section of the Wall, it’s become, in my opinion, the perfect way to see the famous Chinese landmark. Completely unrestored, there’s barely anyone else around and the hike is truly authentic – no touts, chair lifts, or toboggan slides here.

The tour is run solely through Leo Hostels in Beijing, which I only stay in for two reasons: Location — the hostel is a short walk to the Forbidden City and is located in quaint local alleyways — and this tour. I’m not sure you can join in if you’re not staying at Leo.

So when Mike and I went to Beijing, taking him on this tour was a no-brainer. Planned for Day 2 of our Beijing itinerary, we woke up early to make the 7:30 hostel bus that would drive us two and a half hours to the section, the full name of which we later learned is the Remnant Great Wall at Badaling. The ride was punctuated with background information about the Great Wall, in the form of an educational documentary and a less educational South Park episode.

Once we arrived, our “guide” let us loose immediately and we were free to climb and explore on our own.

I don’t know how the hostel has managed to keep their section of the Wall so isolated (calling it a ‘secret’ is probably inaccurate as scores of people have taken this tour over the years). My theory is there’s a good reason more people don’t want to climb the Remnants: it’s too dilapidated.

The year I went with my mom and sister, there were so few signs of life around, we actually felt like we were breaking into abandoned private property. This time with Mike, there were minimal upgrades and signs of restoration – a welcome sign, some handrails and a few wooden stairs had been installed.

However, after about ten minutes the Wall once again turned into nothing more than crumbling rock and overgrown bramble.

It is not the Great Wall the average tourist imagines or wants pictures of.

Also, you have to be at least a little bit fit for the three hour hike. If you aren’t and actually want the chair lift up, you’re SOL. Both times I’ve done this hike, a mother in the group would attempt the first twenty minutes of the climb, then give up and head back to wait on the bus. And while it’s a wonderful feeling not to be pestered by hawkers, there is one downside — the water you bring, is the only water you’ll have.

For three hours we hiked, stumbled, huffed and puffed. It’s tough, but rewarding: Soaking in thousands of years of history beneath your feet without hearing hawkers selling wares. Taking photos without worrying about someone photo-bombing behind you. Looking ahead and seeing not cable lines, but misty mountain ranges.

After the hike we returned to the bus, and were taken to a nondescript local restaurant for lunch. Some people in our international group couldn’t handle the traditional Chinese fare (most of which were just vegetables dishes anyway!), but even those who didn’t eat were still amused by the loud Beijingers who came in and chatted at them in thick Chinese — keeping our Great Wall experience authentic from beginning to end.