First off, I am one of those people who love their birthdays. Like, I consider it a holiday on equal standing with Christmas and New Year’s, and have a one-month countdown that makes my friends and family roll their eyes every year.

So I love that for the last five years, I’ve found myself living in a different city on every birthday.

Each one has also seen me at very different stages of my life (both expat life, and in general). As I looked through old photos while putting together this post, I found it funny to think about what has changed from year to year – my priorities, my personality, my hair — and what hasn’t.

2008: Dalian

I turned 19 in the northeastern city of Dalian, China. Back then, there were few foreigners in Dalian, so the expat circle was very small and close-knit. On my birthday, almost all of those expats came out to celebrate over a large dongbei-style dinner and drinks (hence the Chinese cakes — I honestly have no better photos of that night).

I had no idea who I was then: I was newly independent and had just discovered what an expat was, and what that life entailed. But thanks to the friends I made there, Dalian taught me to crawl out of my shell. I discovered a whole new side to myself; one that up until then had been stifled in central Pennsylvania.

2009: Shanghai

I turned 20 soon after I returned to Shanghai; this time for an internship. Choosing which internship was probably the hardest decision I had to make that year: a paid position with a magazine in Beijing, or an unpaid one with a popular city blog in Shanghai. Despite the one in Beijing sounding better (proper publication; paid) I went with my gut and chose to stay in Shanghai. That’s when I learned it’s better to trust your instincts and not always follow the money  – staying in Shanghai led to a summer that changed my life in several ways, both professional and personal. Thanks to that decision, 2009 was the year I learned how to be truly self-confident, and to shout that confidence to the world.

2010: Elizabethtown

My 21st was also the day of graduation. The night before, even with two mates visiting all the way from Australia, I actually didn’t get drunk (because I refuse to be hungover on my birthday; I also didn’t feel like looking like a lush in front of my traditional Chinese relatives who had come into town for the occasion). I indulged in a handful of celebratory drinks from friends who insisted on buying me shots; went back to campus and watched the Class of 2010 set a couch on fire; then drank a gallon of water and was in bed by 2. In the morning I graduated with a bachelor’s in political science, packed up my apartment and said good riddance to college. Two weeks later I left home for good and embarked on a brand new adventure in Asia.

2011: Singapore

By the time I turned 22, I was completely settled into my expat life in Singapore: I had a proper job, an incredible flat, a serious boyfriend. I also had a large social circle, and the celebrations lasted all weekend; including a chilli crab dinner with my closest friends to a big party on the Saturday night. The owners of a local British pub let me have their place for the night for no charge, and even threw in discounted drink prices all night (and they even made that lovely banner). It was an unforgettably fun party that lasted until 6 am; everyone I knew in Singapore came out to celebrate. I felt so loved after that night — I’d come a long way from the shy, self-doubting expat I was at 19.

2012: Paris

This year I’m turning 23 in Paris. It’s the first birthday that I haven’t planned a party, a dinner, or even drinks to celebrate — this year, I’m doing absolutely nothing. Mike has flown in from Singapore to visit me for a week, and I’m happy just having him around. In fact, I felt perfectly content seeing in midnight with Mexican food, a glass of red wine, and The Inbetweeners Movie. And while I originally planned for us to go on a day trip to Giverny or Epernay, now I can’t be bothered and am looking forward to staying in Paris where I’ll have breakfast in bed, lunch at Angelina, and dinner at Verjus. Oh god, I’m getting old.

 Where do you think I’ll be in 2013?

If you’re just joining in now, check out the other cities that have been covered so far here.

Today’s guest post comes from Tom, a Brit in Korea whose blog I’ve followed for quite some time. His posts always crack me up, whether they be about European travel, his adorable Korean students or expat life in general. I’m absolutely delighted he’s tossed some of that wit my way for today’s post.

Tom of Waegook Tom: Why I Love Yeonguwon District

I lived in Daegu, South Korea, for two and a half years working as an ESL teacher and, during that time, found myself a man — yes, a man — (*shock, gasp*) so wonderful that I decided to change my location and move to Daejeon, a city about two hours north of Daegu.

My neighbourhood in Daegu was amazing and had everything I needed. My new neighbourhood in Daejeon is the polar opposite — there’s not much here at all. No cinema, no big supermarket, and definitely not a lot of other foreigners. I stare at any other white person I see.

“Who are you? Why are you here?”

Well, chances are they work at one of the many research institutes in the area, for that is what my neighbourhood is famous for throughout Korea. Daejeon is known as the research capital of the country, and a whole host of home-grown and international super brains work for companies that are no doubt researching cures for cancer, ways to survive nuclear war, and more pedestrian things like batteries and lighting. These research centres are called “yeonguwon” in Korean.

I prefer to consider the former two options personally as it makes me feel like I’m living in the midst of some kind of scientific action thriller. I’ve yet to see any chase scenes however.

Anyhow, I digress. Even though the area isn’t abuzz like certain areas of Seoul, Daegu, or even elsewhere in Daejeon, it certainly has its benefits, so allow me to introduce the Yeonguwon District….

Barbecue, Barbecue, Barbecue

I’m a ravenous carnivore and, much to my delight, Korea caters for my excessive meat-eating tendencies. The neighbourhood is full of barbecue restaurants, serving everything from artery-clogging samgyeopsal (fatty pork) to makchang (cow intestines ) and galmaegisal (a much leaner cut of meat). The places are always buzzing, the prices are cheap, and they come with unlimited side dishes. More raw garlic? Help yourself, especially if you choose to go to an all-you-can-eat for fourteen dollars pork rib restaurant with an adorable name and sign.

꽃보다소, or Ggot-Boda-So is the place’s name – it means “I like cows more than flowers”

Tiger Leads the Way

No matter how inebriated or just downright lost I am, I have a rule that I use to navigate: Follow the Tiger.

There’s an elementary school in the neighbourhood with some pretty damn good paintings on it, if I do say so myself. The wall with the tiger on indicates that I have to turn down the next street to get home.

A tiger trying to kill a bird. From the vicious minds of third graders.

Luckily drugs are not readily available in Korea, so there’s no chance of any trippy encounters that will lead me to believing that the tiger is lurching out of the wall and ready to have a hula party with me, right before chomping my head off.

Maybe the angels will save me.

The Korean version of the Powerpuff Girls?

Edible Intestinal Treats

As well as a variety of restaurants, my neighbourhood also has a fair few delicious food carts that line the streets at night for anyone looking for a quick bite.

Street foodporn at its very finest.

My favourite cart is owned by a lady that sells sundae, which is made from intestines and stuffed with meat, pepper and vegetables and then dipped in salt. Healthy? Certainly not. Delicious? Yes. The lady’s cart is super popular as her sundae comes in many varieties – regular, kimchi and curried sundae, to name but three – and she always throws on a fair amount of liver at no extra cost. Getting a huge heap of mixed sundae for six dollars has become a fortnightly Tuesday tradition.

Classy Cafes

OK, so I’m clearly doing no work, but check out the adorable gingerbread man decorations on the window!

Believe it or not, Korea has quite a vibrant café culture and there are coffee shops all over the place. I love to relax, unwind, and order the thing that least resembles actual coffee on the whole menu — caramel macchiato or green tea latte, anyone?

For a small neighbourhood, the place is chock-full of coffee shops. I mean, all those science types need somewhere to go over the blueprints for their humankind-conquering robots, right? For the less cranially blessed among us, they’re a great place to grab a drink, take advantage of free WiFi, and write guest posts for other fabulous bloggers or try to decide if I really do like Kindles.

My favourite in my neighbourhood is D’Ete, which is simple, crisp, chic, all the ingredients they use are organic and they don’t charge a fortune just for using the organic label.

Headquarters

Unfortunately I can’t get close enough to take really decent photos. Something about “not being an employee”. Pfft. Hanwha are clearly evil.

It’s about a thirty-five minute walk from my apartment to my work, which takes me right past all the big research centres for major Korean companies – LG, Etri and Hanhwa, to name three. The buildings are all super modern, and their juxtaposition amongst the greenery and foliage that’s everywhere can be striking if the weather is in the right mood. The housing in the area is all owned by the companies and is given to their employees, with things being a little bit chicer than the ugly, grey concrete tower blocks that are omnipresent throughout the country.

Note that I said chicer, not chic.

Student Central

Just a five minute bus ride away and things are a little more buzzing, as riding the 704 Daejeon city bus will take you right to the stunning, and sprawling, Chungnam University. The university grounds are perfect to walk around whilst you admire the foliage, fountains, and somewhat attractive students.

I like to think there’s a correlation between the university’s beauty and the attractiveness of the students. Chungnam scores highly.

Chungnam University is where I head to if I want to experience a slightly different vibe yet still be within the outer realms of my neighbourhood – and without having to haul myself to Daejeon’s new city, about a forty minute bus ride away. I attend a language exchange there most Sundays, and get to practice my Korean and help others with their English. Good old-fashioned, wholesome fun. Being a university area, the place is naturally crammed with bars, restaurants, and cafes that open later than 11pm in case I need a late-night caffeine fix. A night out here is perfectly doable, as the fare back to my place is a mere 3000 Won – about three dollars. Hey, if you’re from the UK like me, believe me, that’s a bargain.

Language Exchange in a café by Chungnam University

If you’re ever in Korea and decide to come to Daejeon, do it – we’ll grab a coffee and stare at the white guy in the corner, trying to figure out if he’s a fellow teacher or a human reincarnation of Mojo-Jojo. And hey, we can try some all-you-can-eat meat and then go drool over some fine physical specimens, too. A recipe for the perfect afternoon in my neighbourhood.

———

About the author: Tom has been living in South Korea since June 2009, masquerading as an English teacher whilst planning his round-the-world trip that shall finally come to fruition in 2013, or cramming down as much Korean food as he can get his hands on. He’d appreciate it if you could send him some good
cheddar cheese, too. Tom blogs over at Waegook Tom; you can also find him on Facebook and follow him on Twitter @waegook_tom.

All photos courtesy of the author.

Holy cow, does time fly.

In that time, I’ve lived in two countries, traveled across three continents, and had too many adventures to count — and (except for one six-week period) I did it all while holding a job abroad, or with another one lined up.

———

First, let me back up a second and explain why I’m writing this.

It seems nearly every travel blogger in the world has some line in their bio that states a version of: I hated my 9-5 so I quit my job and sold my house/car/belongings to travel the world.

And I’m not putting them down, not in the least. I think it’s great whenever anyone gets to travel, regardless of timing or catalyst.

But I wanted to share my story, partly inspired by this post, because so many bloggers give you the why of travel (often using themselves as an example: “Don’t be like me, don’t wait, go now while you’re young and still free!”) but there are few posts on how it’s actually been done.

To reiterate, this is not Why you should travel after graduation (a quick google search will give you endless reasons). Nor is this a guide to becoming a permanent traveler or expat — what worked for me, might not work for someone else.

This is simply my own personal story, to show that it CAN be done.

———

So this part is kind of long. If you don’t care about my story, you can skip to the advice part further down.

The Singapore Chapter

After graduation, I wasted no time. I gave myself two weeks to say goodbyes and organize logistics (legal papers, banking, etc.) then I packed up and said goodbye to America. I’d always known I was going to move and stay overseas after graduation — I also knew that being an expat and working abroad would be the only way to support my travel habit, as I had very little money saved.

My first stop was a five-week trip to Shanghai. This was more personal than professional; I went with my mom and sister and spent most of that time visiting family and friends. I had no intention of staying in Shanghai (I loved the place too much; I knew if I stayed, I would never leave).

However, I did have job offers there, so I kept it as a back-up option: I didn’t have an onward ticket to anywhere, so if I couldn’t find any other alternatives, I would stay in Shanghai. Just for a little while more.

Around the same time, one of my good friends was relocated to Singapore for work. He had a spare room in his company-provided apartment, and said I could move in if I wanted. I took it as one of those things people say just to be nice, not actually to be taken seriously (like when you tell a friend you’ll definitely visit them in their new home in Farawayistan, or saying “Let’s stay in touch!” to someone you know you’ll never see again).

But the offer was serious, and the draw of free rent was too enticing. I booked a one-way ticket to Singapore.

Singapore was not somewhere I ever saw myself visiting, never mind living.

But I did some research and found out that Singapore has a little-known, fairly new Working Holiday Pass program. I applied online and was quickly granted a six-month working visa. Well that was easy enough, I thought.

It took me six weeks to find a job. I didn’t do my research; I had no idea Singapore was such a tough market for entry-level foreigners. The one upside to unemployment was that it gave me a lot of free time; time I used to volunteer at the Singapore Youth Olympic Games — a role that would end up changing my life. But I’ll get to that.

I eventually found a job — on Craigslist, in fact. It wasn’t in the field I studied (politics), but it was in my field of interest (social media). I went for an interview, and though I had little experience, I got the job. For the next nine months, I was the digital strategist for an Asian supermodel reality television show.

The International Sports Chapter

Working for the Olympics has always been a dream of mine — one of those impossible dreams I never thought would come true, like my other childhood dream of being an ambassador.

A friend heard about my move to Singapore, and he put me in touch with his friend who was already there, working at the inaugural Youth Olympic Games. I happened to arrive just days before volunteer training started, and I had all the free time in the world. So thanks to my friend’s connection, I became a volunteer supervisor in the main media center.

Through those Games, I met some wonderful people in the Olympics circuit. I talked to everyone about how working for the Olympics was my dream, and people said my passion shone through the way I worked, even as just a volunteer. I’m not trying to boast; I’m just saying that my passion was obvious — and because of that, a few months later one of those contacts reached out to me out of the blue:

X needs help at the Summer Universiade Games, can you go to Shenzhen in August?
Y needs help at the World Sailing Championships, can you go to Perth in December?

So even though I quit my television show job in June 2011, those two gigs gave me security — and that’s how I was able to spend so much time traveling last year. From June until the end of the year, I traveled worry-free, secure in the knowledge that I had positions waiting for me in August and in December.

The Paris Chapter

But I had no idea what I was going to do after December. I started to get worried: what was I going to do after I was finished in Perth?

I definitely didn’t want to go back to Singapore — like Shanghai, I had started to love the place too much and was worried if I went back, I’d never leave. I thought about moving to Vietnam or staying in Australia on a working holiday visa, but neither idea appealed to me. Nothing against teaching English or waitressing — I’ve done both before — but I wanted to continue finding more career-oriented jobs abroad.

And that’s when luck struck again.

I realized knowing French would make me more valuable to the international sports and media field, so I had posted my resume on a few job websites in Francophone countries (France, Belgium, Switzerland). I was determined to find a job in one of those countries — something that could pay the bills while also allowing me time to take French classes.

In November, as Mike and I were traveling around China, I received an email from an employer in Paris who wanted to hire me immediately as a private English tutor. We only had two weeks to get through all the red tape of French bureaucracy, but it miraculously worked — I got my visa for France only hours before I boarded my flight to Perth.

And that leads me to where I am today; in January I flew from Australia straight to Paris. My job here might not be as career-oriented as marketing and journalism were, but I’m okay with it because working a career-type job was not my main goal of being in France. I came to become immersed in French, so to me, this is still a career move. I’ll be here for at least a year, and I’m currently working on getting to London this summer.

———

The Takeaways

Like I said from the very beginning, this is not a how-to. I know I’ve caught a few lucky breaks. But honestly, I don’t think it’s luck so much as just a result of being abroad. The world has so many surprises, and increasingly more opportunities, that you just won’t find at home — all you need to do to find them is take that first leap of faith, and GO.

So, fresh graduate who wants to move abroad, here are the things I’ve learned:

On the practical side:

Scout out places where cost of living is low. That way, even if you don’t find a job immediately, at least you’re not blowing through money too quickly on just the basic necessities like rent and food. I didn’t do my research; what I spent in six weeks in Singapore could have easily lasted twice as long in Thailand.

Research visas and working holiday passes. Sounds obvious, but nothing kills a good plan like a tripping up on a technicality like overstaying a visa (or not having one at all — see Vietnam). For each country you may be looking at, know how long you can stay on a tourist visa, find out the process for getting a working visa, and check if there is a working holiday program.

Take a TEFL course online while you have free time. If you have a degree in say, business or engineering, you probably have a better chance of finding a job in your field. But for us politics, history, and other liberal arts majors, more often than that our best bet will be teaching English — and most schools prefer to hire teachers with TEFL certification. You can do a course anytime online, but it certainly makes the job hunt easier if you’re already certified. I’ve always kicked myself for not doing one with all that free time I had senior year.

Buy a one-way ticket. If you’re going to move abroad, commit to it. This isn’t just another vacation. (And after booking it, you will most likely freak out. Totally normal.)

Before you leave: Set up online billing and payment for any credit card bills or college payments you have. Call your credit card companies and tell them you’ll be out of the country, so they don’t block your card. And I don’t know how necessary this is, but I gave my mother power of attorney before I left. You can get PoA forms at any office supply store (or even online) and then just go to a notary to have it authorized.

Other tips and advice:

Don’t be afraid to look in unconventional places for jobs. Craigslist ended up working for me, but there’s also library bulletin boards, networking events, or even the old-fashioned newspaper or magazine ads. Not every job opportunity will be on Monster.com.

Give yourself a deadline and a back-up plan. No point beating a dead horse and trying to get a job where there isn’t one. Give yourself a deadline so you don’t waste too much time; if that day comes and you still can’t find something in that city, go to your second choice. Or third. When I moved to Singapore, I gave myself two months to find a job, and my back-up plan was teaching English in Saigon. My back-up back-up was taking a job in Shanghai.

Make yourself useful/Volunteer. Just because you don’t have a job doesn’t mean you should waste your time. Keep yourself active and make yourself useful — it not only looks good on a resume, but also comes handy when an interviewer asks what you’ve been doing for the last x weeks. Saying you spent your free time learning new skills or volunteering comes off a lot better than, “I sat at home and watched reruns of Community.”

It can also lead to something better, be it a paid gig or even just meeting new people. I would have never imagined one volunteer gig at the Youth Olympics would have led me down such an incredible career path.

Step out of your comfort zone. I could have easily accepted those jobs in Shanghai after graduation. I knew I loved the city; I had established friends and a good life there. But how would I have seen the world then? Sure, I would’ve taken holidays here and there, but that wouldn’t have opened my eyes to nearly as much as moving to Singapore did.

Don’t be afraid to say yes to a job or opportunity. Even if you think you won’t like it. I can guarantee it will at the very least be a learning experience; and you never know where it might lead. I didn’t think I’d like Singapore; I didn’t think I’d be able to work in marketing. Both were good opportunities at the time though, so I took them anyway — and they worked out unbelievably well.

Be passionate. Notice I didn’t say follow your passion, because, well that would go against the point I just made above. We’re young and entry-level and most likely won’t have the luxury of being able to get our dream job right away. But you can still find something to be passionate about, either in your work or outside of it. And that passion will shine through, and it will pay off in the future.

Network, network, network. Talk to anyone and everyone — you never know who you’ll meet that might end up changing your life. It might even be someone you already know — if it weren’t for my old college buddy offering me a place to stay in Singapore, I would never have moved there.

Even if you were shy before, you’re in a new country now. No one knows you’re shy. Just start talking.

Be patient and flexible. My move to Singapore seemed like a failure at the beginning. But because I didn’t give up and had a little patience, it turned into an unbelievably incredible journey. I’ve not only been able to travel all over the world, but I’ve gained experience in new fields and started chasing my dream career; not to mention getting to meet some of the best damn people in the world.

Take risks. This sums it all up in a nutshell. Everything you do after graduation, hell everything you do in life, is a risk. So don’t overthink it; just do it. Take a risk, and move to a new country. Take a risk, and apply for a job that might not be in your field. Whether it’s in work, or love, or life, you won’t get anywhere by playing it safe.

Congratulations to the class of 2012, and happy travels.

There are a few reasons for this: I tan unnaturally quickly, so I avoid excessive beach time lest I start to look like Asian Snooki. I quickly get bored with the environment — I’d much rather read a book in a café. But most of all, it’s because I have a mild OCD tic about sand. I can appreciate the beauty of a sandy beach, but I don’t find sitting on one remotely relaxing.

That’s why I originally brushed off the idea of visiting Rottnest Island. The advertisements around Perth and Fremantle showcased it as a beach holiday destination, where families can spend all afternoon relaxing in the sand and sun, then throw barbecues on their beachfront patios. Not for me, thanks.

But when I found out a fellow blogger was planning to bike around the island, I decided to join her — and I am so glad I did. After seeing what Rotto has to offer, I think anyone would be terribly mistaken to overlook it while in Western Australia. Not only is it an incredibly easy day trip (the island is only 14 miles west of Fremantle, and ferries run several times a day), but there is much more to Rotto than just beaches.

History

As I biked around the island known as Wadjemup in the Aboriginal language, I constantly stumbled across historical buildings and sites that contrasted against the island’s beautiful shores; reminding you of its dark history and the constant struggles and misunderstandings between settlers and natives. Between 1838 and 1931, Rottnest Island’s main purpose was as an Aboriginal prison; over 3600 Aboriginal men and boys arrived on its shores, often for crimes they didn’t understand. At the Wadjemup burial ground, nearly 400 prisoners are buried. It is now sacred land; yet prior to 2007, this space was used for various recreational purposes by tourists, including camping.

Small churches are clustered in the island’s center; they were often used as schools during the day and reading rooms at night, when people would congregate to read newspapers and magazines by candlelight (how quaint does that sound?). Rotto also played a larger role in the survival and development of Western Australia: in the still standing Salt House, you learn that Rotto has twelve salt lakes, each with a salt content four to six times greater than sea water — meaning for years this was the only source of salt in WA.

And the Bathhurst Lighthouse is a reminder of a time, not that long ago, when people still perished simply due to poor lighting. Captains of ships heading to Perth, then known as the Swan River Colony, would ignore or misunderstand lighthouse signals, and would find disaster waiting on the rugged coastline and shallow reefs of Rottnest Island.

Activities

Besides the obvious swimming and snorkeling, the most popular thing to do is to walk or bike around the island. The roads are often clear (or at least, uncrowded), which makes for a relaxing ride; and the scenery is absolutely beautiful. You never know what you’ll find around each bend: a sweeping ocean view, a forest of greenery, a seemingly-untouched beach, or even an encounter with the native wildlife.

Another draw to Rotto is animal sighting; especially for the novelty of finding a quokka. These marsupials can only be found on two islands in Australia, and sort of look like a tiny kangaroo or wallaby, though far more adorable. They’re harmless and aren’t afraid to get up close and personal to sniff you for food. Animal sighting can also be a passive activity; all you need to do is keep your eyes open. This peacock came strutting about next to me while I was eating lunch.

If you prefer guided tours to exploring on your own, the island also offers several free ones each day, led by volunteers. Depending on where your interests lie, you could join in on a historical tour through Rottnest Museum, a nautical tour of the reefs and shipwrecks, or a nature tour of the salt lakes and bushlands at Viamingh Lookout.

Nature

But of course, with 63 bays and beaches, it’s difficult to go to Rottnest and not find yourself enjoying at least one. I was surprised to find myself so awe-struck by the beaches. Not because of the soft sand or lack of crowds; again I wasn’t there to be a beach bum — but because of the crystal, and I mean crystal clear waters that revealed an incredibly array of colors beneath from the shallow reefs. The waters of Rotto honestly took my breath away.

Yes, Rottnest Island is a gorgeous beach destination. But it was the history that really stayed with me. The isolation that makes Rotto so idyllic today is exactly what made it a hardship a century or two ago; without direct access to supplies or facilities, the people on the island had to be incredibly strong and self-sufficient. People come to Rotto to relax, and relax I did — but the island is also the story of people who suffered and persevered.

I left in late afternoon, feeling unexpectedly fulfilled, thinking of a small sign I found near the pier:

“Although it’s a short distance away from the coast, in truth it’s a world away.”

Because I started the series only a few months ago, so far I’ve only covered cities in France and Ireland. But I’ve had the great joy of eating in far more countries than that, so today I begin my mid-month installments: on the 15th of each month, I’ll be posting “The 5 best things I ate” for a city or country I visited previously. (The posts on the last day of the month will remain focused solely on food I’ve indulged in in the last 30 days.)

I’m excited to go on an expedition through the external hard drive I have dedicated solely to travel photos, and in the coming months you can expect 5BTIA posts from places like Bali, southern Thailand, and of course, Singapore. But today we focus on Australia. 

I spent five weeks in Perth and Sydney, but I’m condensing Australia into just one post because I was (lucky enough to be) hosted by friends during that entire time – meaning nearly all my meals were home-cooked. And while some were extraordinarily delicious (like one very memorable Christmas lunch), I think it will be more useful and practical for readers if I focused on food that was more easily accessible to all.

1. Oysters — The Sydney Cove Oyster Bar, Sydney

While I have yet to try American oysters, I would consider these the best oysters I’ve ever tasted. Incredibly fresh, perfectly briny, and locally sourced, we sampled both the Natural, which are served with a red wine eschalot vinegar (pictured), and the Kilpatrick, which are grilled with julienne bacon and dressed in the bar’s Kilpatrick sauce. Even better, the bar is located right along the water’s edge at Circular Quay, just steps away from the Sydney Opera House. Relaxing along the water’s edge, enjoying these oysters and a glass of white wine while facing a gorgeous view of the Harbour Bridge — that’s how you make a memory.

2. Kangaroo Satay — Little Creatures Brewery, Fremantle

A bit clichéd, perhaps, but it had to be tried. Tender and juicy, I would definitely recommend kangaroo satay; especially accompanied by a beer at Little Creatures Brewery in Fremantle, home of the famous Australian craft beer. Besides being full of flavor, kangaroo meat is also meant to be a better alternative to beef for both health and environmental reasons. I enjoyed it so much, I can understand why kangaroo has become the protein of choice for some Australians and expats.

3. Korean BBQ — Sinabro, Perth

I first met my good friend F, who was hosting me in Perth, when we were both study abroad students in Dalian, northern China. There was a heavy Korean influence in the city, and it was there I first discovered and fell in love with Korean food. To relive our Dalian days, F took me to Sinabro, a somewhat hidden joint in Northbridge. I loved it: the food was authentic and properly spicy, the soju was cheap ($12 a bottle), and everyone around us was Korean. If you need a bulgogi or kimchijeon fix in Perth, definitely come here.

4. Avocados 

I wasn’t an avocado enthusiast until I went to Perth, and discovered how delicious (and gorgeous — look at that color!) they could really be when not constantly found hanging out with their guacamole cohorts. I became a bit obsessed with the fruit while in Australia — usually on a bed of lettuce with a drizzle of balsalmic vinegar; or my favorite, which I often made for breakfast: on toast with a thin layer of vegemite. 

5. Coffee

Australia is known for its coffee culture, and everywhere I went, not once was I disappointed by a flat white or short black. I was disappointed in some dry cappuccinos I ordered, where the lack of foam qualified them more as lattes than caps — but when the quality of the coffee is this good, you honestly don’t mind having a little less foam and a little more coffee in your cup. But be careful: once you’ve been sucked into the Australian coffee scene, you won’t be able to tolerate a bad cup of coffee ever again.

Other Australian staples I’d recommend trying: Vegemite, beetroot on burgers, meat pies, and pavlova. What Aussie foods are your favorites?

If you’re just joining in now, check out the other cities that have been covered so far here.

One reason I love running this series is because I get to learn about places I’d never heard of or considered visiting before. This week’s post finds us in Germany once again, where Californian Kate lives with her husband and dog in the American military base town of Wiesbaden; while I never really had a desire to visit Germany, after last week’s post on Wolfsburg and now hearing about lovely Wiesbaden, I’m starting to reconsider.

Kate: Why I Love Nerotal

Our part of town is a smaller section of Wiesbaden Nordost (northeast) surrounding Nerotal Park, which is nestled at the foot of a small hill with vineyards and a golden-domed Russian church overlooking the city. My husband found our apartment in the month he had moved here to start work while I was still packing up our home in the States. We knew we wanted to live in Wiesbaden because we liked how it was a big town, but still had a smaller-town feel and really old architecture (we took a quick trip here the month prior, as I had never been to Germany, to make the decision to move and scout apartments).

Not really knowing much about the neighborhoods of Wiesbaden, he picked this apartment because of its proximity to the Nerotal Park (two blocks down) – with two others a few blocks in the other direction — and the two grocery stores on our square block. While the big mansions that line the park with names like Villa Nerotal (which coincidentally, our friends just moved into!) were a bit of a giveaway, it wasn’t until we started to see all the little old ladies walking around in their fur coats that we realized we lived in what some saw as the swanky part of town.

Most people are familiar with Wiesbaden because of its proximity to Frankfurt (about 40km) and the heavy American presence from the military base in town, but we fell in love with the history and architecture that were spared during the War. Not to mention the fact that we can afford a beautiful apartment that would cost about 4-5 times as much where we’re from in California. Score!

Why do I love living in the Nerotal? Where do I even start…

Architecture and History

Even though our building is the shabbiest one on the block (thankfully, the hardwood floors and tall, ornate ceilings inside make up for this), the fact that the buildings here have such a long history feels really special. Ours dates back to the late 1800s, but some are even older and have their dates printed on plaques on their exteriors.

The Park

Little did my husband know when he picked out this apartment because of its proximity to a park that this would become my favorite park in town. Sure, it’s where I spend most days walking our dog, but I love that it’s smaller, quieter, and just far enough away from the main streets to feel like you’re in your own secluded part of town. The view of the hillside vineyard and beautiful gold-domed Russian church from it don’t hurt either.

Location, Location, Location

Annual wine festival in town

I’ve already mentioned the park, but just beyond the park, there’re also forest trails for even more space to commune with nature. About 7 minutes walking in the opposite direction is the town center, where all the pedestrian streets are with loads of shopping and restaurants and seasonal festivals. We’re close enough to get to everything with little effort, but far enough away to enjoy a little more quiet. It’s really the best of both worlds. And did I mention 20 minutes down the Autobahn is the well-known Rheingau wine region?

The (Friendly) Fellow Dog People

Germans are not small-talk people and would never chat with you if they didn’t know you, or even say hello, but they love their dogs and think nothing of standing for a long while to chat with a stranger about their dog. With our often faltering German, it’s nice to be able to connect with people through the basic conversations about our dogs. This now-established rapport means they will say hello or nod when they see you around town. Who knew our crazy dog would be our ‘in’ with German society?

Best Thai in Town
The absence of Chinese food here made me really sad at first, until I realized that Thai food is the exotic take-out they do here — and that it’s even better. Not to mention that the best place we’ve found in town — and we’ve tried them all! — is just around the corner from us. Their Pad Thai is the only one I’ve found that even comes close to my favorite in San Francisco.

Nearby Cupcakes
German cakes are notoriously different from what Americans are used to (some would call them dry and not very sweet) and as an avid baker, I have hard time swallowing what the Germans consider dessert. Lucky for us, when I don’t feel like baking or need a quick treat when out with friends, there’s a cake company in town that sells very American-style cakes and cupcakes to several local restaurants, cafes and coffee shops. Their carrot cake is the best!

Friends
Apparently we live in such a desirable part of town, some of our closest friends here have since moved into the neighborhood. Another couple we met at a summer festival, we discovered lived just two doors down from us! We feel really lucky to run into our friends regularly in the park, at the grocery or just on the street. In a country where more often than not we’re reminded of what foreigners we are, it’s nice to feel like we belong amongst people we know in our little corner of Wiesbaden.

———

About Kate: Kate is a born-and-raised San Francisco Bay area girl who fell in love with Europe on a French summer study program in high school. Lucky for her, her husband-to-be was offered a job in Germany literally a week before their wedding — and thus began a whirlwind of life-altering changes. She also has what some might call a serious obsession with shoes. You can find her on her expat blog An American in Wiesbaden, her shoe blog Sole Satisfaction, and on Twitter @shoegirlinDE.

All photos courtesy of the author.

“Where are you from? [America.] No…where are you really from?”

and

“Wow, your English is really good!“

I always respond the same way: “I’m from America. Really, America.” and, “Well it should be. I’m American.”

I was born in Ohio. I grew up in Pennsylvania. I smile that classic wide American smile, I say “awesome” way too much, I measure in feet; I consider myself 100% American — and in my head, that label doesn’t come with any associations of color.

Yet when I go abroad, hearing these two questions constantly reminds me that I’m different; and that all people can see is my Asian face. And it can be incredibly frustrating for the Asian-American traveler when people cannot separate ethnicity from nationality.

In the East

In China, I encounter a great deal of hostility because I don’t speak fluent Chinese. Cabbies or waitresses or shop owners will start a conversation, and I can see each step of their thought process as they realize something’s not right about me. Wait…you don’t speak Chinese? Wait…aren’t you Chinese? No, no, stop saying you’re American. You look Chinese, you are Chinese. So…why don’t you speak Chinese? 

In comparison, any Caucasian who can muster out a ni hao or xie xie gets a big smile and an enthusiastic, “Wow, your Chinese is so good!”

The racism I encounter in China is a sort of self-racism. Chinese adore Western culture, and often think anything foreign is better. The market is flooded with skin-whitening products* and streets are filled with Audis and Mercs. Caucasians are constantly sought out for gigs where all they have to do is speak a few lines of English in a commercial, or just sit with a product for an afternoon and look white.

In short, Caucasians get preferential treatment in China.

I’m almost never on the receiving end of these perks, simply because I don’t look like a stereotypical American.

When I would sub in for classes at English schools, parents would look visibly concerned when they saw that someone who looked like them was teaching their children English; then they’d start looking around as if they thought I’d simply hidden the regular white teacher in a nearby closet.

I once had a voice-over job offer rescinded because when the director saw me in person, she suddenly claimed my speech had a Chinese accent — despite having heard my tape and claiming my American voice was exactly what she needed only a few minutes earlier.  

My Caucasian friends in China constantly complain about being stared at, singled out, and overcharged; they wish they could blend in like I do. It’s a classic grass-is-greener argument. Maybe it’s just my ego speaking, but I’d prefer being put on a pedestal than being looked down upon.

Slightly unrelated, but you know what else? It’s heartbreaking to blend in. When I look in the mirror, I honestly do not see myself as Chinese (probably a psychological effect of growing up in a very Caucasian town and attending an even more Caucasian college). So to move to China and suddenly become invisible; to feel everyone’s eyes just go straight through you, because you look the same as 1.3 billion other people – it’s soul-crushing.

In the West

On my first trip to Ireland, and by association Europe, I was incredibly disappointed to find that locals were constantly complimenting me on my English and then pressuring me to reveal my “real” country of origin. I hoped things would be better in Paris, as it’s a much more diverse and cosmopolitan city. But things only got more insulting.

If in China I was treated unkindly for looking Asian when people wanted me to fulfill their white American stereotype, at least I would still gain a few points for having grown up in America and being fluent in English. In Paris, I’m assumed to be Asian — and looked down upon simply for that fact.

I’ve had a lady come up to me on the subway, mutter “Chinois” at me sharply like it was a dirty word, then walk away. Then there was the jerk who delighted in scaring the crap out of me during a Chinese New Year parade.

I’m constantly getting drive-by shoutings: “Ni hao! NI HAO!” When I inform the shouter that I’m American, I never get a response even close to resembling an admission of error. Instead, the other party will usually mock the way I’ve said “I’m American”, as if to say, “Of course you are. Hey everyone, look at this Asian — she thinks she’s American.” The ‘greetings’ always seem to have malicious intonations; it’s not like Asia where people will say Hello just to genuinely be nice and attempt to speak your language.

I’m getting the impression that Westerners have a superiority complex to Asians. I don’t know if it’s because of how Sino-European history has gone down in the last couple centuries, or if it’s because of the stereotypes of Asians being smaller and weaker. Or maybe it’s just a “we’re taller and we can process alcohol and cheese better than you” thing. It doesn’t help that millions of Chinese travel to Paris to do their luxury shopping; on the Champs Élysées you’ll see mobs of Chinese tour groups all carrying bags upon bags of Louis and Chanel and I’m sure the already tourist-weary Parisians haven’t taken to the crowds too kindly.

It’s not just Europe, either. In Australia, I had a drive-by shouting where a man on a bike started spouting off a rant in the middle of a crowded shopping area because he thought my (white) friend and I were a couple. He nastily spewed out insults like, “Oh so you can’t get an Aussie girl, mate?” and the always classic, “Go back to where you came from!” I was furious and shouted in front of all the families enjoying their Sunday brunches, “I’m AMERICAN!” — to which he simply sneered as he rode away, “Wasn’t talkin’ to you.” I don’t know if he even heard what I’d said.

And of course, no matter where we are, when Mike and I travel together we’re constantly being judged. People assume he’s the colonial overlord who’s gone and picked himself up a little Asian trophy and/or I’m a gold digger just trying to get a green card.

Trust me, we’re legit.

I’m tired of the judging, the assumptions, the condescension, the racism. Days like today, where three Belgian teenage girls wouldn’t stop yelling konnichiwa at me until I acknowledged them; after which they continued to mock me for saying I was American, make me want to quit Europe and go home.

It’s funny: I’ve spent these past few years traveling around the world, trying to stay away from America — yet it’s the only place where I feel truly accepted and like I belong.

Any other travelers (Asian or not) have similar stories, or am I being overly sensitive? I’d love to hear other perspectives.

———

For more on Asian-Asian racism, Korean traveler Runaway Juno wrote about her experiences in China here.

For more on Asian female/white male relationships, Shanghai Shiok wrote a series of intelligent and reflective posts that can be found here.

* To clarify, the desire for pale skin has been around for centuries and isn’t because it’s western; however, the fact that white girls are much paler doesn’t help but to increase the western adoration.

The Ireland posts are finished, and I’ve caught you all up on my life so far in France. 

It’s time to continue onto…The Backlog.

I’ve been traveling since 2008, but Expat Edna has only been around since late 2011 (and if I’m being honest, I didn’t start really throwing myself into this site until February of this year). That’s three years of adventures I’ve been aching to write about; every time I browse through old travel photos I think, “I need to write about this someday.” Well Someday has come. 

I’m going to start with Australia, then move onto the Southeast Asian travels. Of course, I’ll still be writing about Paris and any current travels as well. Read my 2011 travel recap for a preview of the stories to come.

Let’s kick off Australia with a highlight of one of the country’s best features — its beaches. From Perth to Sydney, here are six beaches I loved in Australia:

Rottnest Island

Located off the coast of Western Australia, Rottnest Island (or “Rotto” as the abbreviation-loving Aussies call it) was the location of a former Aboriginal prison and is now a popular holiday destination, especially for day or weekend trips from Perth. Rotto’s beaches will remain forever imprinted in my memory for their unbelievably clear waters that showed off the wildest, most varied shades of blue. I thought I’d seen beautiful beaches before in Thailand and Indonesia, but none come close the jaw-dropping beauty I found in Rotto.

Bondi

Sydney’s Bondi is one of the most famous and recognizable beaches in the world, and understandably so. Surfers love the waves; beach bums enjoy relaxing on the kilometer-long stretch of sand and relaxing before such a gorgeous view. While I’m neither surfer nor beach bum, Bondi took my breath away for one reason: its enormous, almost-perfect, pounding waves. I could have watched them crash on the rocks for hours.

Floreat

One of several beaches you’ll find in the suburbs of Perth, I only found myself at Floreat because I tagged along to the Christmas staff party of my best friend and his bottle-shop coworkers; they wanted a quiet beach to enjoy some daytime drinking. Floreat was perfect for just that: in the five hours we spent there, the only other person I saw on the beach was the occasional kite-surfer. To add to Floreat’s appeal, the waves were massive (see the guys in the photo for a wave-to-person ratio)!

Newcastle

While I didn’t get to actually take a dip in the waters of Newcastle’s beaches, I did get a chance to tour them from above thanks to a pilot friend. The Newcastle coastline is stunning — but those are details for another post. The beaches seem quite family-friendly too, as when we drove past them later they were packed with families with young children.

Salamander Bay

Located in a small town a few hours north of Sydney, I spent four days in Salamander Bay relaxing at a mentor’s beach house after leaving Perth. With the water right at our doorstep, I spent my days drinking wine, playing catch with the family’s puppy along the beach, and watching dusk cast a gorgeous orange glow on the bay every evening. It’s the perfect place to get away and decompress.

Fremantle

Of the four weeks I spent in Western Australia, half that time I was in Fremantle — a small city near Perth and host to the 2011 ISAF Sailing World Championships (the event that had brought me to Australia in the first place). While Rotto may have the most beautiful beaches, Freo is dearest to my heart for the memories. I spent the better part of three weeks on this beach: watching and reporting on world class sailing races, drinking locally brewed Little Creatures beer with my best friend, and catching stunning sunsets almost every night.

What are your favorite beaches in Australia?

Suddenly, a flash of color caught the corner of my eye. It beckoned us into another room. But we had already gone too far — did we dare venture further? One more room, then one more. Still nothing. This was it; we had to admit defeat.

Then a shout — “It’s HERE! I found it! Come quickly!” 

We all came running into the room. We quickly took a photo of our elusive beast. Then, with only minutes to get back to the Pyramid, we started running; running through the hallways of the Louvre….

———

I never expected to have this much fun at the Louvre.

I always assumed my first visit to the museum would find me wasting several hours getting lost and being overwhelmed. I never imagined I’d be running through the hallways, rushing past confused school groups and Asian tourists, breathlessly excited and having the time of my life.

So what was I doing that made the Louvre so fun? I was on a treasure hunt. 

Cupid and Psyche (photo courtesy of Jennyphoria)

THATLou, or Treasure Hunt At The Louvre, is a creative new way to see the Louvre and learn about its pieces: combining art and history with the competitive nature of a timed treasure hunt.

Daisy de Plume, who founded THATLou last year, creates each monthly treasure hunt through meticulous planning and research. Each month focuses on a different theme; recent ones have been titled “Angels and Wings” and “Money and Power”, and featured art works that fit into those themes.

The game is simple: Each team is given a copy of the same packet, which is filled with images of various paintings and sculptures, along with a short description of each piece. These are the “treasure” items you are hunting for. Each is worth a certain number of points — the harder a piece is to find, the more it is worth. The team with the most points at the end wins a small prize — and of course, bragging rights and personal glory.

Groups have an hour and a half to find as many pieces as possible from the Treasure Hunt list. When an item is located, the entire team must photograph themselves in front of it. (This is where I learned that it’s damn hard to take a photo of a painting on the ceiling while trying to fit four heads into the shot.)

There are also opportunities for bonus points: If you read each artwork’s description carefully, Daisy has included opportunities to earn extra points — which can make the difference between coming in first or second place (for instance, pointing at the butterfly in Chaudet’s Cupid and the Butterfly was worth an extra ten points).

Cupid and the Butterfly (photo courtesy of Jennyphoria)

The game is also about strategy. Daisy warns you from the beginning that it is impossible to find every item on the list, so your team must decide which items to hunt for and what sections of the Louvre to explore.

The targeted artworks come from all over the museum: from Egyptian artifacts and Dutch paintings to French sculpture and Near Eastern antiquities. So do you focus only on the ones that are worth more points, but more time-consuming to find? Or do you stick to the easier pieces that are worth less, and risk not having enough points at the end?

Outside help is prohibited; absolutely no talking to museum employees or consulting Google — you have to rely on your Louvre map and sense of direction alone. To make it even more fun, teams must stay together at all times — if you catch someone more than three meters away from their teammates, they lose 10 points per foot apart and your team gains those points!

The Winged Victory of Samothrace

This was my very first trip to the Louvre, and now I could not imagine visiting any other way.

If I had gone in as a normal tourist for two or three hours, I would have been incredibly overwhelmed, and probably would have stayed far too long in each wing and still would not have  seen as many collections, or learned nearly as much as I did through THATLou.

Of course, in two hours I didn’t see everything there was to see — I didn’t even scratch the surface. But I left feeling like I’d learned so much more, and gained new friends along the way — after all, nothing bonds people more than a good run through the Louvre (and the post-THATLou drinks help too)! I’ve heard entirely too many stories of travelers disliking the Louvre after one visit and seeing no need to return, so I am grateful to THATLou for making sure I did not become one of them.

For travelers to Paris, I highly recommend THATLou for anyone who wants to visit the Louvre and actually gain something from the experience besides feeling lost, clueless, or overwhelmed by enormity of the museum’s collection.

For those who consider themselves Louvre veterans or art buffs, Daisy’s hunts include both famous, recognizable works, and those that are lesser known, so I have no doubt they would still find the hunt both challenging and interesting.

THATLou runs the first Sunday of each month. It can also be held for corporate team-building exercises, school groups, birthday parties and upon personal request as well — so even if you can’t make the monthly Sunday Series, you can still participate in your own private THATLou. Whether you’re a visitor or a local, this is not something to be missed in Paris.

THATLou
Held the first Sunday of each month
Cost: 18 euros, includes a drink afterwards
www.thatlou.com 

Disclaimer: While I was invited to participate in a complimentary THATLou, all opinions are my own. It really is pretty awesome!

If you’re just joining in now, check out the other cities that have been covered so far here.

Being quite young myself, “family travel” is not something you’ll find me regularly writing about. To be honest, I don’t know how people do it — I can barely handle making sure I don’t fall into a ditch while I travel; never mind a small child. But more and more families are moving and living overseas these days, and today’s guest post reflects that by featuring a new perspective in this series: that of an expat mom. Read on and discover what American expat Tatiana loves about Nordstadt, her family-friendly neighborhood in Wolfsburg, Germany.

Tatiana Richards Hanebutte: Why I Love Nordstadt

Years ago, when the desire to move abroad first took hold of me, I imagined myself carefree and unattached, living a bohemian life in some some exciting world capital, dancing in bars until the sun came up. My actual story turned out to be quite different. When I moved to Wolfsburg, Germany last September, I was three months away from getting married and bringing a two-year-old with me. Needless to say, proximity to bars moved way down on my list of must-haves. That’s why I was so excited when my husband and I found an apartment in Nordstadt. Wolfsburg has made a commitment to being a great place for young families, and this commitment is very apparent in Nordstadt. It’s the perfect place for a young family to live.

Spielplatzen (playgrounds)
As the stay-at-home mom of a very energetic toddler, access to nice playgrounds is crucial! Luckily, you can’t throw a stone in Nordstadt without hitting a spielplatz. Whereas in the States we’d have to drive at least 10 minutes to get to one, here, there are three within walking distance. Going to the playground has also been a good way to meet people. I’ve learned a lot about Wolfsburg from chatting with other parents I’ve met at the spielplatz.

The Allerpark

One of the things I love most about Nordstadt is its proximity to the Allerpark. There’s so much to do in the Allerpark! It’s anchored by the Allersee, a large artificial lake with a sandy white beach, perfect for lazy days in the sun. My family’s favorite part, though, is SoccaFive Arena, which is part indoor playground, part indoor soccer field, and part sports bar. Oh, and did I mention that Volkswagen Arena, home to the VFL Wolfsburg soccer team, is just across the way? In addition to these, the Allerpark contains a bowling alley, a day spa, an indoor swimming pool, a hochsielgarten (essentially, an obstacle course made of ropes in trees), and a hockey arena for the city’s professional ice hockey team, which for some reason is named Grizzly Adams. There’s also a gigantic lot which hosts circuses, festivals and a monthly fleamarket.

Old Wolfsburg

Officially founded in 1938, Wolfsburg is young, as European cities go. Consequently, much of the town has a modern look and feel to it. However, there are still traces of the settlements and villages that predate the city’s official founding, the most visible located in Old Wolfsburg. It’s partially enclosed by a grey stone wall and is home to horse stables, half-timber houses and my personal favorite, Schloss Wolfsburg (Castle Wolfsburg). The castle was built in the 1600s by the von Bartelsleben family and is surrounded by an honest-to-goodness moat.

The Autostadt

The Autostadt bills itself as a theme park, but instead of roller coasters and popcorns, you’ll find cars. LOTS of cars. Home to the ZietHouse, the most visited auto museum in the world, it offers a cross-country, off road obstacle course and guided tours of the Volkswagen factory, among other things. But if cars aren’t your thing, fret not! The Autostadt hosts a variety of cultural activities throughout the year, including a six-week performing arts festival and a traditional German Christmas Market. As of right now, the Autostadt’s campus is peppered with 43 Easter eggs, eached decorated by a different artist. Pretty neat, huh? Though technically it’s not IN Nordstadt, the Autostadt is literally two minutes away, just across the street from Schloss Wolfsburg. Its location is a neat bit of irony: while Old Wolfsburg is a reminder of the city’s past, the Autostadt is a shiny, futuristic example of progress.

Neuer Teich

Neuer Teich is a large pond that sits in the middle of Nordstadt’s Teichbreite neighborhood. Encircled by a paved footpath, at any time of the year you’ll find people biking, walking or rollerblading around it; moms pushing strollers, elderly couples holding hands. Geese and ducks are ever-present distractions dogwalkers and objects of wonder for small children, and in the winter, when the Teich is frozen solid, whole familes go out onto the ice for impromptu hockey games. It feels like a piece of the country in the middle of the city, and it’s the thing I love most about Nordstadt.

———

About Tatiana: Tatiana Richards is a writer and former social media manager from Alabama living out the latest chapter of her life as a stay-at-home, expat mom in Wolfsburg, Germany. Read about her adventures in Deutschland at Tatiana in Flux.

All photos courtesy of the author.