Two Days in…Dublin

When I think of Dublin, I immediately think of both a historical and a modern city. A former Viking settlement, its history extends to the medieval times and is reflected in the city’s architecture and landmarks. But as the capital and largest city in Ireland, it’s also the center of the country’s economy, education, and culture, making Dublin extremely cosmopolitan.

You could spend a weekend in Dublin exploring purely historical sites (especially given Dublin’s impressive literary past). Or you could spend the entire weekend focusing on more contemporary activities. Of course I’d say it’s best to mix the two, especially as the city’s history is hard to ignore when you’re walking past centuries-old castles and cathedrals.

Here’s what Mike and I saw, ate, and did in two days in Dublin. (There are also other recommendations at the end, which are from my last solo trip to Dublin.)

SEE

The River Liffey and its Bridges

The River Liffey flows through Dublin and separates the city into Northside and Southside (which results in a bit of rivalry between the two). A walk along the banks is nonetheless an enjoyable way to see the city. Each bridge along the river is different; one of the most famous and recognizable being the Ha’penny Bridge.

Georgian Doors
The Georgian Doors of Dublin originate from the 1700s, when residents painted their doors vibrant colors and added intricate designs to their houses to rebel against the strict architectural restrictions of the time. They’re most common in the area behind St. Stephen’s Green, but keep an eye out as you walk through the city for these bright, ornate doors.

Gothic Architecture 

For two hard-to-miss examples of Gothic architecture, visit St. Patrick’s Cathedral (also the National Cathedral of Ireland), or Christ Church Cathedral. Not a cathedral person (like me)? Here’s a tip: Leo Burdock’s, the oldest chippy in Dublin, is located around the corner from Christ Church. Go grab yourself an order of their fantastic fish & chips, then walk over to either of the two cathedrals and enjoy your chips while people-watching in the courtyard.

(One more Gothic building to seek out is Dublin Castle — built in the early 13th century, it’s certainly the most historical of the three, but not nearly as fun to eat in.)

EAT/DRINK

A Full Irish

Not for the health freaks, a full Irish breakfast usually includes some combination of bacon (“rashers”), sausages, black pudding, white pudding (neither of which contain actual pudding, mind!), fried eggs, sauteed mushrooms, a grilled tomato, and soda bread. Accompanied, of course, by a cup of tea.

Soda Bread
Soda bread gets its name from using baking soda to rise, instead of yeast. In comparison to American toast or French baguettes, Irish soda bread can seem quite heavy. I prefer it though, and would describe the texture similar to a dry muffin, or a moist scone. It’s an Irish staple and worth a try.

Chicken Wings
That’s right, I said wings. I am obsessed with the wings at Elephant and Castle, and I am not ashamed to admit it. They were one of the best things I ate in Ireland and one of the only reasons I can think of to go into the Temple Bar area — which is otherwise full of tourists and over-priced pints.

Guinness and Cider
The famous Irish stout really does taste better in its homeland — maybe because people here know how to pull a proper pint. But if you don’t like Guinness (it pains me to even write that), you should try Bulmers, an Irish cider from Tipperary (also known as Magners outside Ireland).

DO

Visit The Guinness Storehouse
There is much more to this seven-story pint-shaped tourist attraction than just beer. It’s truly an experience, from the engaging exhibits to the historical galleries — one of my favorites being the history of Guinness advertising, filled with vintage artwork and memorabilia. And of course, enjoying a free pint at the Gravity Bar, which has one of the best views over Dublin.

Walk O’Connell Street 

This is Dublin’s “Main Street”, and there are two sites I find particularly of interest on O’Connell Street. The first is the General Post Office (GPO), a symbol of Irish nationalism. Only a century ago Ireland was fighting for its independence from Great Britain, and during the Easter Rising of 1916 the leaders of the rebellion used the GPO as its headquarters. As a result of fighting with the Brits, the building was damaged by explosives and bullets, and if you walk past it today you can still see the pock marks in the original columns.

The other is The Spire. At 398 feet it is the tallest structure in Dublin, and was built to “improve the street layout”. I don’t know that it really accomplished that…but you can’t miss it.

Wander St. Stephen’s Green

I love St. Stephen’s Green, a Victorian park in the city center. Gardens and lakes make me happy — especially in the midst of a large city. After a couple hours of walking through busy streets and congested crowds, it feels good to clear my head and get lost in a spacious 27-acre park.

People-watch on Grafton Street

This pedestrian street is one of the main shopping areas in Dublin, and a wonderful place to people-watch. Here you’ll find buskers, mimes (not the creepy kind), and other performing artists, some of which are exceptional. If you’ve ever watched Once, this is where Glen Hansard is first busking in the opening scene. (If you haven’t seen Once, watch it or we can’t be friends). At the end of Grafton Street, say hi to the statue of Molly Malone, Dublin’s famous beautiful (fictional) fishmonger.

FURTHER SUGGESTIONS

Book of Kells and Trinity College
The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript, created by monks around the 8th century; it is unbelievably, gorgeously intricate and considered a national treasure. In fact, when you visit, you’re not allowed to take any photos of the delicate vellum sheets. After visiting the display at the Trinity College Library, take some time to walk around the beautiful campus of the oldest university in Ireland.

Kilmainham Gaol

Like the GPO, Kilmainham Gaol plays an important role in the history of the Republic (can you tell I studied Irish history in college?). Here, the leaders of countless Irish rebellions, including the Easter Rising of 1916, were held and executed. Now Kilmainham acts as a museum on the history of Irish nationalism. However, it wasn’t just rebelling men held here — women and young children were incarcerated as well, some for the most petty of crimes. The conditions were terrible, especially in winter; though according to one guide, during the Famine, food was so hard to come by that some would purposely commit a minor crime (like theft) and seek incarceration just for the prison food.

Hurling and Gaelic Football
The Irish are an athletic bunch who fiercely love sport, and there is no better way to experience Irish culture and mix with the locals than by attending a hurling or Gaelic football match. Even Croke Park, built in 1884, only began allowing non-GAA sports to be played in the stadium in 2005, such is their dedication to Gaelic athletics. For sports enthusiasts, Croke Park also offers stadium tours and houses a GAA Museum.

I’ve been playing Gaelic football for a few years now, and what I admire most about GAA sport is that it’s kept strictly amateur, not professional — meaning those who play, really do play just for the love of the game.

What did I miss? Any other suggestions for two days in Dublin?

Related Posts:
One Day in Galway
The 5 Best Things I Ate in Ireland
8 reasons to visit the Guinness Storehouse