One Day in…Galway

Whenever I see an Ireland itinerary that skips over Galway, I tut to myself — and then try to convince the friend/acquaintance/random stranger at the coffee shop whose computer I’ve been glancing at to reconsider. It may not have the popularity of Dublin or the kissed-by-millions stones of Cork, but if you’re planning on traveling through Ireland, Galway is definitely worth a stop — if even for a day.

That said, I’ll admit there’s not that much to do in Galway (as a tourist). In my experience, it’s actually a great base for taking day trips outside the city — to Connemara, the Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands, etc.

But when you’re short on time, it can actually be the perfect situation.

The day after the wedding in Ballinasloe, Mike and I had an afternoon to kill, and hell if I was going to spend it in the hotel bar. Thanks to Ireland’s pretty fantastic public transportation system, we managed to catch a morning bus to Galway, walk around the city for a while, then hop back on Bus Eireann and return to Ballinasloe in time for the evening’s festivities.

Of course, it helped that I’d been before, so we weren’t wasting time being lost. But still, we spent less than a day there, and that was enough for Mike to agree: Galway is definitely worth a visit.

One Day in Galway

Walk Through the Latin Quarter

Start from Eyre Square, which is in the center of the city (and directly across from the train and bus station, dead handy), and is adjacent to Shop Street. This turns into High, then Quay Street, which is mostly irrelevant because it’s just one long stretch that leads down to the Harbor. The shops become increasingly more colorful and buskers of all talents and ages perform as you pass. Admire some street art, wander into local artists’ shops, and soon it should become obvious why everyone uses the same adjective to describe Galway: bohemian.

The Spanish Arch and the Claddagh

At the end of Quay Street you’ll come to the Spanish Arch, which was part of an old city wall in the 1500s. It honestly isn’t that impressive to look at, unless you’re a history buff (in which case, you’d also be interested in the small statue in front of the Arch that commemorates Columbus’ visit to Galway in 1477). Walk through the Arch and you’ll continue into the old fishing village: the Claddagh. Or walk away from the Arch, over the bridge, and view the Claddagh from its more often recognized vantage point across the Harbor. There’s usually quite a few swans swimming about as well, even when the water’s frozen over in winter.

The famous Irish ring symbolizing friendship (hands), love (heart), and loyalty (crown) is to have originated in this village, and Thomas Dillon are supposedly the oldest makers of the Claddagh ring. A pop into their shop can actually be educational, as they have a free Claddagh Museum in the back; a tiny space filled with photos, memorabilia, and the “world’s smallest claddagh ring,” just barely visible under a magnifying glass.

Just Keep Walking

Walk along the riverbank away from the Harbor, and appreciate how the River Corrib flows and roars — it’s impressively strong for a river of only six kilometers. This is not a river I like to stand over sober in the daytime, let alone after a few beers at night.

Eventually the river leads to small bridges, colorful neighborhoods on side streets, and other pleasant, quieter areas of town.

Oysters, Chowder, and Fish and Chips

Galway’s known for its oysters; in fact, they hold an Oyster Fest in September each year. I have to admit the ones we had didn’t stand up to Sydney’s, but if you’re a fan of oysters, it’s worth trying out the local specialty. As for the seafood chowder advertised on every restaurant and pub signboard, I had a magnificent bowl at the King’s Head (who also do a divine Bailey’s Cheesecake). For the classic fish and chips, a visit to McDonaghs is recommended — they’ve got “Best of Ireland” awards coming out their ears.

For a Pint and Some Craic…

Along Shop and High Street, you’ll find The King’s Head, Tig Coili, and Taaffe’s all within a few steps of each other. The latter two are pretty cozy, which is really how it should be when you’re belting out Wild Rover with a pubful of strangers; King’s Head is quite large but it is in an 800-year old building (so again, history buffs…) and a few streets away, Roisin Dubh is popular for fans of the alternative/rock scene. However, the best Irish band I ever heard was actually a small folk group during a session in The Crane Bar.

Catch a Busker Show

Mike and I didn’t stay in town long enough to have more than a pint with lunch; we were singing Whiskey in the Jar in a tiny Ballinsloe pub at the end of the night. But even without the Galway pubs, we got our quota of music in by encountering several buskers throughout the day (again, can you say bohemian?). One of the last ones we passed was this group, singing a lively song of which I only caught a few lines: a chorus of “I hate you, I hate you!” It was rowdy and cheerfully tongue-in-cheek, and left me with a smile as we walked back to the bus station and left Galway.

What did I miss? What else should be seen or done on a one-day Galway trip?